Horns

The following Horns were fitted to Aurelias
Aurelia Model Lancia Part No. Manufacturer Part No.
Up to B10-1792, B21-1038, B50-1183, B51-1028 B10-0742R Sparton J 34 – 12V
From B10-1793, B21-1039, B50-1184, B51-1029 B20 Series 1, 2 & 3 B22; Up to B12-1596, B12S-1303 B10-90115 Later 82128588 Marelli St. 15 DEE/AB
From B12-1597, B12S-1304 From B20-2952; All B24’s 82132131 (ex-813.00.132131, ex-B12-90115) Klaxon Jericho 4 nota “sol”
From B12-1597, B12S-1304 From B20-2952; All B24’s 82132132 (ex-813.00.132132, ex-B12-90116) Klaxon Jericho 4 nota “la”

Photo by Paul Mayo of B20-3017 of a typical 4th series horn set-up. This car has an electric fan & fuel filter fitted in front of the radiator. The horn relay box is at the centre just below the fan.

Notes:
Information taken from Lancia Aurelia part catalogues. Series I, Tav.57 & 57bis part #3 & Series II Tav.58 part #4
The fixings for the horns to the body varied on different models. See also 'Electrical System General Description'

Note by Les Rogacki (American Lancia Club, 1973) on Aurelia Horns

Retyped & edited by PM 2007


I have had some problems with Aurelia horns that other owners might benefit from. As they get old Aurelia horns will cease to operate even when adjusted. The functional part of the horn consists of the thin sheet metal diaphragm & the bowl-shaped rear cover, which contains the electrical parts. The operation of the horn depends on an air gap between the diaphragm & the armature in the rear cover.


When manufactured the proper air gap is established with paper gaskets between the diaphragm & the rear cover. The paper gaskets rot & compress to the point where the gap is insufficient to correct with the adjusting screw.


Getting the horn to work again is fairly simple. Cut two new gaskets from thin cardboard (I used manila file folders which are 0.010” thick). Throw away the old paper gaskets & insert the new ones between the diaphragm & the rear cover & assemble everything back on the trumpet.


There is also a paper gasket between the diaphragm & the trumpet. It is to keep the water out & needs to be replaced if not intact. After assembly the horn will need adjustment again by turning the slotted head screw. If the horn shows a dead short & no noise, turn the screw anti-clockwise until it functions properly.

Electrical Notes about the Horns

The horns on Series I cars (Coil-sprung rear suspension) were fitted with a relay inside the right-hand horn. Series II (De Dion rear-end) were fitted with an external relay mounted next to the horns. As a result the wiring &earthing of the horn circuits are slightly different. The 3rd& 4th Series B20 systems are shown below:


On the 3rd Series the horns are powered from Fuse 7 to Terminal B at the right-hand horn (which has 3 terminals). The 2 horns are interconnected from the middle terminal. The 3rd terminal is marked “G” & is connected to the horn button at the steering wheel, where the circuit is completed through the earth. The mountings of each horn must also be well earthed. A pair of horns fitted to a 3rd Series was marked “Magneti Marelli T66A – 12V”. The left-hand horn has only 1 terminal.

On the 4th Series the relay is powered from Fuse 7 & the horns are separately powered from the relay & then to earth. Actuation of the relay occurs through its 3rd terminal being wired back through the connector block next to the fuse-box & thence to the horn button at the steering wheel, & then to earth. The early & late 4th Series are very similar in layout.